The New Grand Seiko spring drive SBGE305G or “Hotaka Peaks Morning Glow” is inspired by the beauty of nature, & the flow of time that surrounds it. The dark red dial of this new Sport Collection GMT takes inspiration from a vivid sunrise as it illuminates the steep landscape of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range in summer.
As with all Grand Seiko GMT watches, its ease of use is ensured through the local hour hand, which can be set separately, forward or backward, while the watch is running, ensuring precision is maintained when changing time zones according to one’s travels. Set against the dark red dial, the silver GMT hand further enhances the high legibility for which Grand Seiko is renowned.
This limited edition of 1,300 hundred pieces commemorates the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s original Spring Drive movement, Caliber 9R, which was created in 2004.
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT is a pinnacle of luxury in the world of timepieces, combining the precision of spring drive technology with the functionality of a GMT function
Spring drive technology merges the best of mechanical and quartz movements. The accuracy of this spring drive movement is +/- 15 seconds a month.
Power reserve indicator on the front of the dial, with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours
The Grand Seiko spring drive GMT offers dual time functionality for travellers. The silver GMT hand further enhances the high legibility for which Grand Seiko is renowned.
Ideal for frequent flyers and those who appreciate luxury and functionality in one watch.
The Grand Seiko “Hotaka peaks morning glow” combines elegance with high-performance features.
It uses some of the most robust materials to ensure longevity such as a dual curved sapphire crystal glass, and a stainless steel bracelet.
The Hotaka Summer features a 40.5 mm stainless steel case and a screw-down crown which grants 200m of water resistance. The tops of its lugs and bracelet feature satin-brushed finishes, while its case sides and bevels feature broad Zaratsu-polished expanses that are a pleasure to behold. The date window lines up with the crown at the 4 o’clock position,
The Grand Seiko Hotaka is available at RL Austen, along with one of the biggest RL Austen collections in the south of England. We offer free & fast Delivery as well as a number of 0% finance options. You can browse our entire collection of Grand Seiko’s online here. Please contact us on 01243 782135, or email us at contact@austenjewellers.co.uk should you have any questions. You can also visit the Grand Seiko Website by clicking here.
There are many things to consider when organising your wedding: Often starting with the destination or venue, your life is soon consumed by photographers, caterers, cakes, cars, suits, dresses, seating plans, invitations – the list goes on. With so many things to organise it is so easy to forget some of the smaller, finer details such as wedding rings. Many couples leave organising this task until the last minute in favour of sorting more “pressing” tasks such as venue or entertainment. However, One of the most recognisable symbols of love are a couple’s wedding rings and apart from the conductor of ceremonies and of course the couple, they are the most important moment of tying the knot.
If your day of walking down the aisle is nearly upon us but you haven’t found the perfect rings yet, Do not panic! it is not a race. After all, your wedding rings are to be worn for a lifetime, so it is really important you spend the time and care the decision deserves.
Below We will outline a few things to consider when looking for your perfect ring…
“Love has nothing to do with what you are expecting to get–only with what you are expecting to give–which is everything.”
–Katharine Hepburn
Personalise it
Your wedding rings should reflect the unique love between you & your partner, therefor have you ever considered personalising your wedding rings to fit your taste & Style? At Brown & Newirth; out trusted wedding ring supplier – every ring is handmade to order ensuring the highest quality & care is taken over your rings. You choose the style in the metal you want and Brown & Newirth can add a personal engraving completely free of charge.
If your feeling a bit more adventurous you can opt for completely bespoke service. Rings made for you, designed (in part) by you. Simply contact R.L. Austen if this is something you would like to inquire about.
Is your Engagement ring an awkward shape? Or do you want something shaped to fit the exact contours so your wedding ring & engagement sit perfectly together? Brown & Newirth offer a shaped to fit service where they can create a perfect fitting wedding band.
Should our Wedding Rings Match?
If both the bride and groom are keen to wear wedding rings, you may then wonder about getting a matching set.
Wedding ring traditions suggest that wedding bands should match, as it’s a signal that the two of you have become one unit. It can also show that you have similar tastes, indicating compatibility.
However, it’s possible that you won’t be able to find a ring that suits both of you. If your hands differ greatly in skin tone, size and personal style, it’s likely that you will be drawn to very different styles of rings. In this case, there’s nothing wrong with opting for non-matching wedding rings. Brown & Newirth have a Selection of rings for all tastes.
After all, you will be wearing your wedding bands for the rest of your lives – you want to make sure you both have a ring that you love and find comfortable to wear!
There is no right or wrong answer to the perfect wedding ring. What might be right for you and your partner may be completely different to others.
Wedding rings come in all sorts of interesting designs and you shouldn’t be afraid to go outside the box. Yes, the timeless gold wedding band that we have all grown to love is a great choice but so are the many other designs to consider.
You will see countless articles listing the latest trends and the most fashionable wedding rings for the year but it is important to consider what style of ring you actually like.
Yes, it is nice to have a trendy wedding band now but remember that fashion changes. What is fashionable today might not be tomorrow.
Have a good look around at the different wedding rings that are available and choose a style that best reflects you. Make a decision that future you will love!
“Where there is
love there is life.”
Mahatma Gandhi
When should I buy my wedding rings?
As we mentioned earlier, there is no time pressures to buying your wedding rings, unlike some other aspects of your wedding planning. This does not mean you should leave to the wayside until the very last minute. You will still need to allow plenty of time to refine all of the details, from finding a style that suits you to get the size just right.
Even after finding your ideal ring and getting it sized to perfection, you should still allow extra time in case any minor adjustments are necessary. You don’t want to receive your rings the day before the wedding and find that a name has been misspelt on the engraving of a custom wedding ring… and you certainly don’t want to risk arriving at the altar on the day and finding that the ring simply won’t go on! Brown & Newirth offer one free re-sizing & re-finishing.
Brown & Newirth at R L Austen
I hope you are now feeling a bit more clued up & confident about purchasing your wedding rings. Here at R.L. Austen we have a long & distinguished history of helping couples discover there perfect wedding rings. Most recently we have installed a beautiful Brown & Newirth bridal lounge on our first floor, this Space offers couples an unparalleled wedding ring buying experience in comfort & style.
If you are looking for you perfect wedding rings then please do make an appointment to see one of our highly skilled wedding ring specialists who will endeavour to find your perfect match! You can call us on 01243 782135 or make an appointment online here.
TUDOR – A ROYAL WELCOME
Even if your not invested into the world of Horology, your probably already well acquainted with TUDOR’s masterfully created tool watches, which have dominated the brand’s story in recent decades gaining a stunning reputation, equal to there quality & precision. However, as much as we admire the Black Bay & Pelagos range, it’s time to move aside and make way for the TUDOR Royal.
Marrying up with Hans wilsdorf’s vision of creating the best quality watch at the most accessible price, the TUDOR Royal’s appeal lies in it’s variation of configurations, matched with it’s very reasonable price. The TUDOR Royal Range starts at £1,970 but does not compromise on TUDOR’s quality, precision & accuracy.
Royal is a name first used by TUDOR in the 1950s to emphasise the superior quality of its watches. With this heritage in mind, the TUDOR Royal range offers self-winding sport-chic watches with integrated bracelets that are as affordable as they are uncompromising.
TUDOR watches are meticulously assembled and tested to the brand’s exacting standards at their new manufacturing facility in Le Locle, Switzerland. This state-of-the-art facility, completed in 2021 after three years of construction, boasts the latest in product management and automated testing systems and brings together the expertise of skilled watchmakers. With its vibrant TUDOR red decor, the facility spans four levels and covers 5,500 square meters.
FEATURES
REFINED DIALS
The TUDOR Royal range offers sunray motif dials in six different colours: black, silver, champagne, blue, chocolate brown, and salmon. The sunray motif extends from the dial’s centre, creating attractive lighting effects and reflections that enhance the Royal’s sophisticated personality.
INTEGRATED “FIVE-LINK” BRACELET
The TUDOR Royal features an integrated metal bracelet ensuring an uninterrupted line with the case, TUDOR Royal embodies fluidity and unmistakable style. Characterised by its three wide satin-brushed links set between two slimmer polished elements, all in 316L steel or 316L steel and 18K yellow gold.
BALANCE, ELEGANCE & VERSATILITY
Available in four sizes, the TUDOR Royal is designed to fit any size of wrist. The 41 mm version is particularly distinctive as its mechanical movement displays the day at the same time as the date.
The TUDOR Royal is the ultimate in balance, elegance and versatility. The characteristic notched bezel, with its alternating surface polish and cut grooves, is just one of the design details, rooted in the History of the Brand, that gives the Royal its unique personality.
TUDOR AT R.L. AUSTEN
At R.L. Austen in Chichester, we are proud to be your trusted official TUDOR retailor for Sussex and the surrounding area. We offer our clients a diverse range of TUDOR products from our knowledgeable and friendly TUDOR specialists. We currently have a fantastic selection of TUDOR Royal’s available instore & online. You can browse our selection here.
Alternatively view the entire range on the TUDOR website.
TUDOR Royal 38mm Automatic
M28503-0008
TUDOR joins Alinghi Red Bull Racing as Main Partner in their quest for the 37th America’s Cup.
Participating in the America’s Cup, the world’s most important sailing event and long-established sporting trophy, requires vision, innovation and audacity. It is this spirit that led to TUDOR joining forces with Alinghi Red Bull Racing; a team that unites the legendary two-time America’s Cup winner, Alinghi, with a driving force in global sport, Red Bull and that will sail under the flag of the Société Nautique de Genève.. TUDOR lives by this daring spirit since its very creation, a century ago, and today celebrates through its signature #BornToDare.
Alinghi Red Bull Racing, Challenger for the 37th America’s Cup, brings together two sporting icons, equally obsessed with reaching peak performance. Alinghi, twice winner of the America’s Cup in 2003 and 2007, returns to the competition by joining forces with a driving force in global sport, Red Bull recently buoyed by being crowned of F1 World Champion. This association is unprecedented and comes with a renewed team and a fresh approach. Beyond the 100% Swiss Made sailing crew, Alinghi Red Bull Racing brings together cutting-edge skills, particularly in the field of design, with an international team comprising fifteen nationalities.
To celebrate its partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, TUDOR presents two brand new Pelagos FXD models: a chronograph and a time-only watch inspired by yacht racing. With cases made from carbon composite, titanium, and stainless steel and fitted with manufacture calibres, these watches embody the daring spirit that is needed to be a contender in the most competitive yacht race in history.
Both models have a matte black carbon case and a bi-directional titanium bezel with a carbon insert, matching the case in colour. The Pelagos FXD has a case diameter of 42 mm and is 6.5 mm high. In contrast, the case of the Pelagos FXD Chrono measures 43 mm in diameter and 7.23 mm in height. Both timepieces are water-resistant up to a depth of 200 m.
The case of the FXD is characterised by its fixed strap bars and was developed with divers from the French Navy. Inspired by the components of the hydrofoil AC75, Tudor uses a material combination of high-tech carbon, titanium, and stainless steel in the Pelagos FXD and FXD Chrono for the first time.
The screw-down crown and pushers on the FXD chronograph also consist of titanium, with the Tudor logo in relief on the crown. However, the caseback, bearing an engraving of the Alinghi Red Bull Racing logo, and the movement container are made of 316L stainless steel. In addition, a flat sapphire crystal protects the dial.
Daring and innovative spirit of TUDOR is on full display when it comes to the two new Pelagos FXD and Pelagos FXD Chrono models. The watches are imbued with the spirit TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing; Two separate entities that share the vision of pushing traditional boundaries.
REGISTER YOUR INTEREST WITH R.L. AUSTEN
If you would like to find out more about the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD or TUDOR Pelagos FXD Chronograph please visit our website where you can register your interest in these models. You will also be able to view our entire TUDOR range, purchase online, or book an appointment to come and see us.
Chandelier earrings will also be a popular pick, as detailed designs remain trendy for bridal jewellery.This is no surprise as brides often wish to add detail to their profile once they remove their veil.
Delicate bangles are the perfect way to adorn a bride’s wrists and make for a timeless and classic look.
Stackable rings are ideal for the bride who wants to make a stunning statement, as they can be worn in a range of combinations for bold and fun looks.
Statement bracelets are also making a comeback, with bold designs adorning brides across the globe.
Adding a touch of timeless elegance to a bridal look, classic necklaces are set to be one of the most popular bridal jewellery trends in the upcoming year. A simple solitaire, diamond collar or a stunning strand of pearls.
Complete your look with a vintage watch, for a charming and elegant touch. A family heirloom piece or a new vintage addition to a collection will add a note of historical grandeur to your special day, ‘something borrowed’ or ‘something new’.
Silver and white gold are a great way to make a subtle statement, providing a perfect blend of classic and modern elements to any bridal look. A touch of white jewellery for your white wedding.
I have had the privilege to work with Rolex watches for over 20 years, and with Tudor watches for the last 6 years. Rolex and Tudor watches run through my DNA.
Away from work, my soul lies in the ocean, I call my self a surfer, sometimes a cold water surfer, I like the solitude that brings. The thing for me about surfing is that it requires no technology, no machines, no engine to assist you. I have the same interest in Free Diving, it’s just you, one breath, no assistance, no motor, no engine, no pollution. You can’t pollute the ocean surfing or free diving.
In 2017 I was attending one of the Tudor training courses in London where Sven announced the latest sales incentive would be called ‘Take A Breath’ a Free Diving course with my diving hero Morgan Bourc’his. Within a second, I had decided that if we were lucky enough to qualify, I would make it my ambition to not only attend, but dive deeper than anybody else. I wanted to win!
I just could not believe my luck when weeks later Austens got a call from The Tudor Watch Company, that a delegate from R L Austen would be invited to attend the Tudor ‘Take A Breath’ incentive. Please let it be me! Please!
Can you just imagine my joy, when I received my invitation to go to Greece to dive in the crystal clear waters with Morgan and 20 or so like minded Tudor delegates. Utter, Utter Joy!
Then I realized that I don’t actually own a Tudor watch. So how can I go on a Tudor diving incentive without actually wearing a Tudor diving watch? This is where my friend and colleague (now manager) Josh stepped up and told me that I could wear his…Brand New.. I add, Tudor Pelagos. Oh, how perfect that could that be. Josh usually wears his Pelagos on the Titanium bracelet, but as I didn’t know if I would be diving in my own ‘Budgie Smugglers’ or a wet suit, it became very obvious that the Rubber strap was the obvious choice.
Then at last I was there, at Cape Sounio near Athens, full of hope. I don’t mind saying that this was the happiest time I have had in many years, I was truly in my element.
Free Diving is a very newly recognized global sport. Records are being made all the time. Everybody on this incentive was capable of making a world record. In fact one of the delegates came from a country with no free diving records at all, so he became officially the first person from his country to go into the Free-Diving record books! There are very strict rules to Free Diving, too many to say here, but there are strict protocols to follow. If all the protocols have been followed the Official Judge will give you either a Fail, OK, or ‘White Card’. Only ‘White Card Dives’ are recognized for the records. Play the video below with the sound on, and you will see just how relieved I was when I heard ‘White Card – Bravo!!’
This dive was 16 meters. I only had one attempt at it, and right from the start I was surprised that from the top, although the water was crystal clear, I could’t actually see the sea bed or the 16 metre weight with the depth record card that I needed to retrieve and bring back up to the surface. The pressure on your ears is almost instant. The trick is to de-compress regularly by pinching your nose and blowing. The second trick is to relax, do everything slowly, don’t use excess energy. By the time I reached the 16 meter marker, my body was beginning to scream for air, but I knew I still had the return journey upwards. In the training we were told that even though your body is desperate to breath, you can actually keep going through it. I got the card, turned, and upward, then I knew I had enough breath to get to the top. Remember the protocol at the top! Googles off, OK hand sign, say to the judge ‘I am OK’..Done! White Card.
Somehow I acquired the nickname 16 metre Peter, which has since stuck.
It was a fantastic 3 days I will never forget, I met some fabulous people, and was made to feel very welcome. I would like to say a huge ‘Thank You’ to Tudor watches for giving me the chance to realise one of my true ambitions.
Maybe someday I will go deeper; 20 metre Peter has quite a ring to it.
Sometimes when a decision is made to bring something back; like a film, a car, or a piece of fashion, it just doesn’t work. With great hype we expect it to be even better than the original, then reality sets in. That new car looks like it belongs permanently locked up in a garage and transported to a remote island where no one will know you ever purchased it.
Tudor’s outstanding 2019 new edition managed to split the watch enthusiasts tastes in half. I thoroughly loved reading short sharp abuse aimed towards a mere watch from people who had probably not actually worn or seen it in person.
My opinion was then, and still is, that TUDOR were never bothered by it, but more embraced it for its arrival making a huge point. That point could be this: if you want to design a watch that looks and performs like all its competitors, then don’t bother. For the design is part and parcel of the words given in the image below. Tudor’s motto…
BORN TO DARE
THE HISTORY OF P01
1967 2019
THE PROTOTYPE
Before we delve into the history of the P01 it is important to remember the time it lived in. Aviation was having a golden period in the 1950’s and 60’s. Chuck Yeager had already broken the sound barrier in the Bell X1 Experimental supersonic jets. These were tested by pilots like Pete Best, in his Bell X 2, Scott Crossfield first man to fly twice the speed of sound in his X15 , Neil Armstrong pre-Apollo 11 in the X15 too. Space programs such as Mercury, Gemini and Apollo were developing new technology continuously over a 10 year period. It will come as no surprise that Tudor were pushing barriers to provide technical watches to the Navy and Air force.
Tudor, who had been supplying the US Navy with divers’ watches since the late 1950s, began development of a new watch in 1957 needed to meet a set of specifications required by the American government and incorporated the results of the latest research carried out by the brand’s engineers. This resulted in the production of prototypes, as well as a patent for a hitherto unseen function. The ambitious project, which carried the code name “Commando”, never came to fruition. In 2019, the TUDOR Black Bay P01 model – which stands for prototype 1 – is inspired by a prototype developed as part of this study and kept in the brand’s archives, only to have its unique aesthetic brought to life 50 years later. The Black Bay P01 reflects the exploratory nature of the project, a cross between a divers’ watch and a sailing watch.
I immediately took to Tudors idea to incorporate a safety locking system on the bezel to be used for diving. Bi-directional bezels were always a worry for drivers, with the possibility of the bezel moving unknowingly giving inaccurate depth time underwater.
TUDOR describe it in much more detail like this ;
The hinged end-link system on the original prototype was the subject of a patent in 1968, which covered a locking and dismantling system for the bezel to aid maintenance of the watch. The Black Bay P01 model borrows from this mechanism, providing a stop system for the bidirectional rotating bezel via a mobile end-link at 12 o’clock.
Very clever, and surprising too that it took 51 years to finally bring to the market a smart original watch. Nevertheless the P01 now is a greatly improved model from the original. It boasts a high grade In House automatic chronometer movement; MT561 with a chronometer rating of +4/-2 seconds per day. I wore my P01 on holiday over a 2 week period and the timekeeping was actually zero tolerance. Superb because we know this can only be guaranteed up to the COSC certification.
The good news for all you more technical minded watch lovers on a quest for precision TUDOR offer as only TUDOR can say: An openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and plate have alternating polished sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge fixed in two-points. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, and 70-hour power reserve.
Put in my own words, “It’s one that any skilled watchmaker would love to strip down, and caress the movement”
So what about the controversial hybrid strap? My thoughts on that after reading the numerous comments were -People were expecting a bracelet, and TUDOR took their ‘Born to Dare’ vision and said no. Having owned one for several months the P01 is big, and putting a steel heavy bracelet on it would do three things.
With the hybrid high quality comfortable rubber and leather strap it was a pleasure to wear. It will always be about the detail with TUDOR. That is why their famous snowflake logo is etched into the back of the strap which was done to celebrate 50 years of the iconic snowflake hands.
I shouldn’t get too excited about a strap but there are the mobile satin-brushed steel attachments that connect the strap to the watch case with precision. It is this sort of detail that for the amazing price of £2,990 I begin to suspect we get some of the detail for free?
And now we have the TUDOR case material.
The straight angled photo shot gives a precise definition of the beautiful brushed finished case. The clarity and sharpness is quite superb. Every single feature such as the Snow flake hand, the simple black numerals on the bezel, the 4 o’clock position of the crown and that simple line of red writing on the dial does not fail.
Still not satisfied? There’s more; 200 meters waterproofness, domed matt black dial, painted luminescent hour markers and a TUDOR 5 year worldwide warranty.
Finally…If you don’t see many around, then this is a good sign of future investment in my 40 years of horology experience.
By Gary Royston Cole
Though TUDOR in very recent years released their new motto BORN TO DARE, their history to push barriers goes back much further than that.
In 1952 a total of twenty six (26) TUDOR Oyster Princes would be included in the British scientific expedition to Greenland, organised by the Royal Navy. The number 26 may well of been a significant number for TUDOR’S founder Hans Wilsdorf. The reason I bring this to the forum is that the TUDOR company was founded in 1926.By coincidence if you add 26 to their foundation year that is 52, and 1952 we now know is the Year the British Scientific expedition to Greenland commenced.
1952 TUDOR Oyster Prince
Time to reveal now the first TUDOR timepiece to have an in house chronometer movement.. The “NORTH FLAG”
Take your time to have a real good look at this well tooled timepiece. The first thing you may pick up on is the subtle use of the colour yellow. Yellow is a colour rarely used on dials, or bezels. TUDOR cleverly minimise this to maximise the effect. It appears on the power reserve aperture, the second hand, and 10 minute/seconds dial markers.
The North Flag is the first TUDOR watch to incorporate the power reserve feature. Just unscrew the winding crown, wind it up until you see the indicator reaches the top, and you will have a mighty 70 hours of power.
TUDOR also for a similar price offers up a detailed yellow stitched deployment leather strap of fine quality. I actually prefer to wear my North Flag with the strap. In fact I have to date not worn it with the steel bracelet. The decision to spend nearly £300 on the strap was rather exotic. However for a watch I wear regularly I will gladly put up with the deployment clasp designed to be put on your wrist in TUDOR’S own special way.
The North Flag is an interesting proposition for a watch enthusiast looking for a quality watch at under £3,000.
Visually the dial is clear, uncluttered, and justifies a power reserve for the usage it is likely to get. After all it is honed and built for exploratory conditions in extreme places. Power reserves were first designed by one of the greatest watch houses Breguet in 1933. This was devised as most watches have a reserve of power based on the full amount of time it has been wound. Generally this would be 35-48 hours. Power reserve eliminates the guesswork of knowing how long your watch will tick for. Essentially it knows how much tension is left in the watch’s mainspring. This is achieved through a small wheel detailed with a painted hand and a correlating scale given in hours, very effective and minimalistic. TUDOR use yellow graded segments counting downwards towards zero. In emergency situations where you may need to know elapsed time when your watch is off the wrist this could prove to be invaluable.
With all TUDOR’S now you expect to enjoy high quality with an affordable price. Key features for the North Flag are numerous, including the following:
The first TUDOR professional timepiece to have an exhibition back as illustrated below.
Going swiftly back to value for money, TUDOR by having an exhibition case back provide two virtually scratch resistant sapphire crystals. Calibre number, brand name and essential functions of the movement can be seen. This feature is a nice talking point for any watch enthusiast Or forum discussions.
The middle case has a very appropriate steel with matte finish throughout. Complete with a functional size crown with the Tudor logo in relief. Nice touch with the bezel, or should I say double bezel? It is crafted in both steel and matte black ceramic. This design cleverly enhances the look giving it a ‘specialist’ watch look. Which of course is exactly what it is.
The Tudor bracelet options
Both options whether you choose leather with yellow stitched piping with a presence on the inside of the deployment clasp strap or steel bracelet work impeccably. The images give you a good idea of which one to choose, or like me why not have both.
The movement as one would expect for its price range has a bidirectional rotary system self winding officially certified (COSC) chronometer rating. TUDOR push the barriers even further by providing a worldwide five (5) year warranty, and superb quality presentation box with card.
This completes just a short journey into the TUDOR North Flag. Not a watch that is set in the past, but a credible watch that belongs in the future.
by Joshua Getting
My time with the Tudor Pelagos
Over-engineered. A watch that needs to fulfill a plethora of technical and aesthetic feats, all accumulating to one of the most capable and durable watches on the market.
My first interaction with this watch was 2015. The Tudor Pelagos was firmly in the limelight thanks to its incredible achievement of winning “best sports watch” at GPGH. GPGH (Grand Prix Du Horologerie) is in essence the Oscars for watches. Some of the greatest watches of the last two decades have won here through the various categories since the first Grand Prix in 2001. Tudor have picked up multiple awards here over recent years. The Pelagos punched well above its weight but claiming the best sports watch, a category open to watches up to £7,500.00 and won by a watch that at the time cost £3,020.00.
In 2015 the Pelagos was released alongside the north flag, both boasting the Tudor Manufacture movement MT5612. The 70-hour power reserve and -2/+4 second per 24-hour timekeeping was all but unparalleled at this price point and mostly above too. It has a titanium construction, helium escape valve and an entirely patented, ingenious automatic adjusting clasp.
I purchased my Tudor Pelagos as my first luxury watch in 2017, as a wedding present to myself. I felt it offered everything I wanted in a watch, I knew the brand was exciting and moving at a serious pace and it was the choice of watch which was the path less ventured.
Since owning the watch, I can wear it for months on end and still enjoy it thoroughly. The diversity of changing between the bracelet and complimentary rubber strap helps with this and the watch looks so good on both.
I had never worn a watch as big before but being titanium and therefore relatively light-weight you lose any sense of wearing an overly big watch. The dial is highly legible aided by the bright blue luminous which is so bright the watch can be used as a torch! I love that the bezel is also luminous, a feature rarely seen despite the dive watch being such a popular design.
I have taken the watch snorkelling and it goes without saying it was the perfect companion.
In terms of longevity the watch barely shows any marks because the titanium is so tough, the timekeeping is impeccable and is as wearable as the day I got it thanks to the ceramic beads in the clasp keeping the watch firmly on the wrist.
As many will know I would highly recommend Tudor as one of the best manufacturers in the market at any price and the Pelagos would be up there as one of the best models available. The Tudor Pelagos is a watch that has a place in any collection as a wearable, usable and dependable timepiece but the toughest choice is which variation to go for…
By Gary Royston Cole
Chris Evert.
American tennis icon who wowed the crowds from 1972-1989. Wimbledon ladies champion and 18 grand slam titles. I remember her well in 1972 as a child, and how could we forget her now! A Rolex Lady Datejust was worn by Chris herself over a long and successful tennis career. Winning Wimbledon titles in 1974, 1976 and 1981.
I’m not going to talk about comparing a gentleman’s love for watches against a woman’s. It is absolutely irrelevant in any present or past decade.
ROLEX have no need to count which gender purchases the most from them, and quite frankly I am not interested either.
Having sold both new and second hand Rolex watches over a long period I have noticed ladies are not drawn to just a few models of the range; like most men with their current healthy obsession with the ROLEX professional range. In my experience they enjoy taking their time, as thankfully it is all about the style and will it suit them aesthetically, and practically. After all, the starting price for a Rolex timepiece is over £3000. As retailers we should never get complacent on price.
Buying a Rolex is a considerable purchase, and customers deserve your time, your attention, and your knowledge. We live in times where customers are well informed, bombarded by media adverts from their mobiles and have never had so much choice in the world of time watching. We are well rid of the assumption that ladies wear watches just as fashion accessories. This has never been the case in my experience of the horological world. It has never been solely a mans world. Indeed to my utter delight I regularly sell “mens” watches to well informed ladies who know exactly what they want for themselves or as a gift.
Now what I am not saying is most men are blinkered by the current impossible climate of getting these impossible to obtain professional watches. No, no, definitely not.
We have to remember the art of keeping a customer happy is all about how much we listen to them,
With this in mind I am now going to show you 3 different ladies watches by Rolex to demonstrate the terrific diversity of timepieces that I have sold to ladies in recent months. This proves that the ladies could be much more likely not to want to wait patiently on a retail waiting list for an average of 5-7 years for the majority of professional timepieces.
In my opinion it seems that the lady watch enthusiasts are much more open to seeing that all Rolex models are a fine investment, and what looks beautiful on the wrist is what matters more. I know I am controversial, but why write an article that is not from ones heart.
Ladies 28mm Everose Rolesor, polished bezel, Chocolate dial
ROLEX Airking 40mm
ROLEX Oyster 34mm red grape dial
We live in an era where though tradition should be an asset to the retailer, it is not necessarily the only essential ingredient for success. The days of the small cocktail watch 15mm case requiring highly magnified eyes to read the time has well and truly been retired since about 1980.
That is where Rolex stepped in with there tidy 26mm Oyster Datejust, back in 1988 which ran until the 2016 when the 28mm arrived. Note, there still remains only one (oyster steel 26mm watch, and that is the popular non date oyster with a great varied colour range of dials. See below a popular ROLEX green dial example of this watch.
I couldn’t possibly finish this article without the mention of precious stones. Not just diamonds for the lady, but coloured precious stones as well. When Rolex pick their stones the quality has to be high to compliment the highest quality of the overall case, bezel, glass and bracelet. Their grade for diamonds will vary slightly for both the bezel and the dial. A diamond dial would command up to a flawless diamond for the hour markers. The bezel where the diamonds can number 50 plus (depending on model) a little lesser grade. Overall they will be top quartile.
One other precious material that is in high demand is having a mother of pearl dial. Each one is unique with either a slight variation, say with white MOP to more striking reds or pink. For you men reading this my tip would be to allow where possible the lady to choose herself if possible.
Ladies Rolex 31mm mother of pearl dial with diamonds.
Now the above images demonstrate when a Rolex watch becomes an exceptional piece of jewellery as well as a chronometer timepiece. This example above is an 18ct yellow gold Datejust with president bracelet, 28mm with pink sunray dial and diamond bezel, diamond hour markers. 55 hours power reserve, and yes you can safely swim with it on your wrist down to 330 feet. £31,300. l did however once spot a handbag in Harrods for £75k-so this particular Rolex suddenly seems value for money depending how much you like handbags!
Rolex prove their skill as both superlative watchmakers, and crafted jewellers to suit most international tastes. Their place in the ladies watch market remains as secure as ever. Rolex keep on testing the boundaries by releasing a range that is both diverse, affordable compared to its nearest competition, and a sound medium term investment.
I shall now finish where I started with Rolex and its tennis partnership. Their respect for Chris Evert Wimbledon champion will be the same respect for every lady who chooses to wear a Rolex. I hope you have enjoyed my small contribution to the loyal ladies who wear the Rolex crown with pride.
by Joshua Getting
THE TIME TRAVELLING, TIME ZONE HOPPING, TIME TELLING WATCH. THE BLACK BAY GMT
The world has just awoken to a new age of travel. It is now possible to travel from London to the United States of America thanks to Pan Am. Economies were experiencing a boost and many young affluent had a strong desire to travel. Economy domestic flights were expensive but much desired.
This was also a mystical time where organisations such as militaries and exploration professionals could request watch companies to create a timepiece for their specific needs. Pan Am needed a watch fit for travelling the world with them and their pilots and Rolex were tasked with the job.
The watch was created. The Rolex GMT Master, model 6542. There is loads to learn about this game-changing timepiece but all-in-all, it was a super cool tool watch. Originally featuring a Bakelite bezel insert painted half red for daytime hours and blue for night-time hours, you could use this watch to tell two time zones at once. The colour scheme has remained much the same, however the materials have changed; the bezel was changed to anodized aluminium in 1959. If you were the person wearing this watch, you were one of the new elite, travelling the world from one adventure to the next or sat in the cockpit of a machine capable of 1,300 MPH; Concorde.
Now, TUDOR had not been making watches for the time-zone traveller at this time, with their tool watch offering focused firmly on formidable diving watches. Today however, one of the very best watches to offer a GMT function is one out of the TUDOR stable. Joining the family in 2018 (in fact mirroring a release from its sibling company) TUDOR released the Black Bay GMT. The black bay range comes in a whole host of flavours, each satisfying the different watch enthusiast’s desires in their own ways. This one was not one called to creation to reminisce on TUDOR model of yesteryear (such as the Black Bay Fifty-Eight also released at the same time) but simply a nod to the enthusiast who like myself romanticised the golden age of flight and travel and beyond all else, the watches that went along with it.
True to the original Rolex 6542, the Black Bay GMT has no crown guards, has bright, strong colours on the bezel and a beautiful domed glass. Coupled with a fantastic movement featuring timekeeping of -2/+4 secs/24H and a 70-hour power reserve this watch absolutely shines through at it’s price point which is only around £3,000.00. Still a substantial amount of money that’s for sure however, for an original 6542, you could spend as much as 300,000 CHF (see Phillips Geneva watch auction 6).
Of course, Rolex still make the Rolex GMT Master, now the GMT Master II thanks to its upgraded independent hour hand function (as shared with the Black Bay GMT) and this is a fantastic watch. It is however a completely different watch, with a much more dressy tool watch feel – incredibly versatile and appeals to lots of people, a model worn by men and women alike; Pussy Galore wore a Rolex 6542 in my all time favourite Bond film Goldfinger.
For me, this watch is more than just another Black Bay, it is an homage to a time gone by and an absolute reinterpretation of the original GMT Master with a representation of that Tudor signature design that I love. As a self-confessed watch geek, this to me feels more like a time machine to go back and purchase one of the original iconic watches for what I feel is incredible value. I also cannot wait to spend many years with this watch, eagerly anticipating how the bezel insert will change with time, as the later original aluminium inserts have done.
In my opinion, this watch has a place in anyone’s collection, unless of course you do have a spare 1/4 Million pounds (see Southebys important watches auction also)…
‘BORN TO DARE’… just three short words that immediately makes an inviting statement that is sure to draw us into the TUDOR world of timepieces. Confidence with this iconic Brand started as long ago as 1946 when its founder Hans Wilsdorf gave these words, for his vision of the journey he had in mind for his new company TUDOR.
“For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous. I decided to form a separate company with the object of marketing this new watch. It is called the TUDOR Watch Company.” – H.Wilsdorf
As for myself I don’t go back as far as 1946! I do admit however to discovering the brand in my very early retail days during 1979. This was a time when the Tudor Prince Oyster date self winding watch, and the classic ‘Montecarlo’ chronograph had already been launched for several years. If only I had purchased the beautiful, aesthetically eye catching Montecarlo watch at that time. For what would have been approximately under £200 in the day, I now regularly see these rare timepieces go at auction for around £16,000 upwards. Fortunately for me, Tudor in 2010 relaunched this stunning model again under their Heritage range. Going from the early original model (manual wind) to the very reliable calibre 2892 self winding mechanical movement with chronograph function. As you can see these images reveal 3 vibrant and carefully detailed colour coded styles.
Yes they are quite daring in colour! Going away from the traditional steel and black dial professional watches many other manufactures may offer at that level of quality. But isn’t that just the point? Why not apply such colour and style to make it even more daring. Particularly when you have the following complications and features to offer at a price point that is daringly attractive.
Housed within a 42mm steel case using both a polished and satin finish, a beautiful bi-directional colour coded bezel with 12 hour display for the benefit of a second time zone. So then, just imagine yourself now in the heat of a country wearing this watch with the NATO colour coded strap. The warm water of the sea is beckoning you as you are strolling along the seafront esplanade. You can choose with confidence to go swimming because you have the advantage of waterproofness with this timepiece to a depth of 150 meters. TUDOR choose to test every single one of their watches for waterproofness, not leaving any to random testing. With a screw down winding crown complemented with two screw down chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock-I am not taking any risk by deciding to enjoy the sea with the waves crashing down on me. Should I suddenly have the need to check GMT time difference back in my homeland, I only need to glance at that graduated steel bezel to inform me it is time I called home, once again thoughtful attention to detail By TUDOR.
Anyone looking at the Tudor heritage Chrono Blue for the first time may accidentally miss the incredible attention to detail it gives throughout the entire watch. I therefore give you even more reason to consider this watch as a credible purchase when it offers with discreet taste the following features:
-Soft shoulders and crown guards that protect the crown that have precision and style.
-Knurled edge to the rotatable bezel that oozes engineering thoughtfulness, including the disc in blue or black anodised aluminium.
– For an even better grip and look the winding crown and pushers are also knurled in a fashion found in racing cars of the period.
These are just a few of the attractive and functional features that justify the quality and appeal of a true iconic timepiece which began its origin in 1970.
Of course as much as I love all the carefully designed engineered achievements of the Heritage Chrono, it was for sure the unique multi coloured dial that first drew me in. As well as the versatility of a high grade matching coloured NATO strap that will also help me to preserve the top quality Tudor steel bracelet.
As far as I am concerned if I am going to spend over £3,000 on a watch (whatever the Brand) the dial has to sing to me like the fine tuned voice of Pavarotti. I don’t want any ‘off notes’ on my dial. My Heritage Chrono Blue has a blend of daring colours (opaline and blue with orange detail used for five minute interval numerals, a 45 minute totalizer and small second hands).
And it doesn’t end there! That mysterious 45 minute totalizer is pretty unusual, as the normal would be a standard 30 or 60 minutes. The jury is out as to the reason why this complication that still today sits in a pentagon shaped section of the dial which is fondly nicknamed a “Homeplate” is 45 minutes. The Homeplate name is given for a much easier reason; for this is the same shape as a Homeplate many American baseball players run to, and touch to score in a baseball. Now some may say 45 minutes represents half time for a football match, or other sports. I like to think it is more likely to be linked with the motor racing world for the following reasons. The heart of a chronograph (in particular the first early 7031/0 Tudor Chrono with Plexiglass and insert) was complete with a 500-unit graduated tachymetric scale. Simply meaning it had the capacity to calculate the hourly average speed between two points, this is crucial in the world of racing to both driver and team.
After some research I carried out, we could link this to the world of that famous race Le Mans for the following reason. In the history of motorsport warm up sessions were the normal, however they became a thing of the past, with Formula one ceasing them in 2003. The exception to the rule is the famous Le Mans endurance race; Le mans carried on this tradition and still allow 45 minutes on Saturday mornings so that the drivers and their teams can loosen up before the wait finally ends that afternoon. This would typically include testing the engine, brakes and vital components over a 45 minute period.
An early 7031 Tudor Chrono
So then my personal mystery of the 45 minute totalizer is truly out there for for debate. Whatever fans, or non fans of this iconic watch think is up to the individual. My Heritage Chrono Blue will remain special to me for the reasons mentioned in this article.
By Gary Cole
By Gary Royston Cole